Sunday, October 08, 2017


Nestled among the rocks of Camel a symmetrical swell was rolling through as the sun began to kiss the waters.  The full moon hung brightly on the Western horizon. Dolphins rolled in the glassy water, passing underneath my feet.  Sea stacks stood like Roman columns in the water to the North looking towards the Head.  A delicate haze stood on the shore and color was being painted in the clouds.  It left me with the impression that I was sitting in an other-worldly CGI creation of some artist.  Pumping down the line of a head high peeling right brought to life a playful part of me buried latent in adulthood.  A nagging voice had been bothering me - "Get to work!" But then the scene made it obvious - This is here for you.  Live.  Surf until you're tired.  Then go to work.  After all, most of the world still sleeps.

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